By dinner time I was so delirious from jet lag that I felt the zombie apocalypse had hit and I was its first victim. I hopped over to the San Lorenzo district to try Pastificio San Lorenzo, a swinging trattoria that reminded me a lot of the nouvelle bistros that are currently all the rage in Paris. Think simple classics with a fresh, modern twist in a highly functional but stylish setting.


I absolutely loved the decor and vibe of this place, even though they greeted me as if I was an actual zombie. Single woman table, for one? Yipes – run for the hills! After convincing them to seat me at the bar (where the bench was a single vintage leather pommel horse) I settled in with a glass of franciacorta (I got mad props from my waiter for that choice, which is a northern Italian sparkling wine still quite cultish in the States) and let him choose the evening’s dishes.


Antipasti consisted of cod crudo with burrata and black truffles (the above pictured dish). Conveniently the truffle evoked thin cross-sections of brain, fitting into zombie dinner time quite nicely. This zombie gave this dish two thumbless fists up! I was also able to sample an amuse of tuna crudo with citrus cream. Italy really has access to the finest bluefin and this was no exception.

Next up was my pasta course – spaghetti cacio e pepe, a classic Roman dish that I had been craving since landing at Fiumicino. They embellished with whitefish (the twist I suppose) which sounded weird to me at first, given how creamy cacio e pepe can be, but once again topped it with a healthy dose of the earthy tartuffi neri. The waiter suggested the rose champagne, which he had been pushing all night, and hot damn if the pairing wasn’t spot on! The light, acidic fruit of the wine perfectly complemented the creamy pungency of the percorino and pepper. And just to get next level fouchey (that’s a foodie douche for those who don’t know and yes I will take full credit for its origin) the wine’s effervescence matched harmoniously with the unctuous, lush pasta (I would slap myself if it weren’t true!)


I opted for a glass of vin santo instead of dessert, watched the show (the expediting window was directly across from me and the kitchen was jumping, veering dangerously towards the weeds as my meal came to an end) and called it a wrap on a perfectly delicious night. Zombies gotta sleep too. Peep below for what my kitchen will look like some day – complete with old school meat slicer!





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